Access rights and where you can pitch

Wild camping in Scotland is legal, thanks to the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, and the Cairngorms National Park is one of the finest places to enjoy it. But legal doesn't mean a free-for-all. The Scottish Outdoor Access Code asks you to camp responsibly: keep groups small, stay no more than two or three nights in one spot, and move on. You cannot camp in enclosed fields, near buildings, roads or historic sites, and you should avoid obvious spots like the shores of Loch Morlich or the busy Glenmore area in summer. Some parts of the park have seasonal camping management zones, so check the latest local advice before you set off. Park considerately — never block a gate, track or passing place — and be prepared to walk a good distance from the car to find real solitude.

Weather that changes its mind

The Cairngorms are Britain's closest thing to Arctic tundra, and the weather behaves accordingly. A still, sunny morning can turn into a screaming gale with horizontal rain by lunchtime. Even in July, snow can fall on the high plateaux. You need a proper waterproof jacket and trousers, spare warm layers, a hat and gloves, and a map and compass you know how to use. GPS and phone apps are useful, but batteries die and screens crack. Learn to navigate in poor visibility, and check the mountain weather forecast before you leave. Be willing to turn back. The hills will still be there next weekend.

Pack these essentials, and you'll cope with most conditions:

• A waterproof map case and a paper map of the area
• Head torch with spare batteries
• Emergency shelter or bivvy bag
• Plenty of high-energy food and a flask

Midges, ticks and other biting things

Midges are the Cairngorms' most notorious residents. They hatch from late May to September, and they love calm, damp, cloudy conditions, especially at dawn and dusk. A head net and a good repellent are worth their weight in gold. Camping on a breezy ridge or high up can offer relief. Ticks are a more serious concern. They lurk in bracken, long grass and on deer, and can carry Lyme disease. Check yourself thoroughly each evening, and remove any ticks promptly with fine-tipped tweezers. Long trousers tucked into socks help, and treating your clothing can add another layer of protection.

Water sources and staying hydrated

The Cairngorms are full of burns and rivers, but that doesn't mean every drop is safe to drink. Fast-flowing water from a high, clean source is your best bet. Avoid still pools, lowland streams near farmland, and anything downstream of a bothy or campsite. Filter or boil your water, or use chemical purification tablets. Carry enough for the day, plus a spare litre. When you wash, do it at least 30 metres from any water source, and use biodegradable soap sparingly. Never camp right beside a loch or burn — it damages the banks and disturbs wildlife.

Minimum impact: leave no trace

Wild camping is a privilege, and it depends on you leaving the place exactly as you found it. Pitch your tent on durable ground — gravel, dry grass or bare earth — and avoid fragile moss, heather and young trees. Arrive late and leave early to minimise disturbance. Open fires are a bad idea in the Cairngorms: they scar the ground, risk wildfires and are banned in some areas. Use a stove instead. If you need to go to the toilet, dig a hole 30 centimetres deep and at least 30 metres from water, then cover it. Carry out all your litter, including food scraps and tea bags. Respect deer stalking from August to October — check estate advice and use paths where asked. And remember: the quietest, wildest camps are the ones you've walked furthest to find.

When to go and how to choose a pitch

Late spring and early autumn often offer the best conditions: fewer midges, quieter hills and crisp, clear views. High summer brings long daylight and warmer temperatures, but also the worst midges and the busiest car parks. Winter camping is a serious undertaking, requiring snowshoes, a four-season tent and real winter skills. Wherever you pitch, look for a spot that is flat, dry and sheltered from the wind. Avoid hollows where cold air pools, and never camp under dead trees or on loose rock. If you can, arrive an hour before dusk, so you can see the ground and enjoy the light. And always tell someone your plans — leave a note of your route and expected return time.